Other web Sites
Harmonica Blues  Harmonica Amps
Harmonica Links Harmonica Pages
• Archives Home
• Years
 · 1992
 · 1993
 · 1994
 · 1995
 · 1996
 · 1997 		 · 1998
 · 1999
 · 2000
 · 2001
 · 2002
 · 2003
 
Web HarpL
Ebay Searches:
Amps:
Microphones:
Effects:
Harmonicas and Gear:
Harmonica Music and Instruction:

 

 

Harp-L Archives

[Previous Message] [Next Message]
[Next in Thread]
[Start of Thread] [End of Thread]

From: MorTone & TPP
Date: Fri, 10 Dec 1999 16:54:14 -0800
Subject: Re:Astatic #200 (was Billy Gibson)

This is my current #1 shell of choice...
with a black label Shure CR element from
the late 40's. I've had literally dozens of
these mics over the years...but Always found
the original elements much weaker than the
one's I'd found in JT's. They were different, in
the sense that the crystal elements in JT's
were con-cave...or in other words...the tin foil
was shaped like a speaker..and the center
connecting pin was short. Whereas with the
#200's I'd found...the elements were con-vex.
The pin was long and the foil was much higher
in the center going to the tip of the pin.

My point is...every element with this con-vex
or outward shape sounded very weak..in comparison
to any of the "sunk inward" shaped crystals I've
found over the years.

Any mic guru's out there care to 'splain this to me?

Thanks
~TinkerMicMan~


At 01:30 PM 12/10/99 -0700, you wrote:
>At 01:56 PM 12/10/99 -0500, you wrote:
> >If I'm not mistaken, the mic is a modified Astatic 200 or 200S....handle
> >removed and an added screw-on connector and volume control.
>
> >
> >>Billy Gibson, a very fine harmonica player around Memphis, has a CD with a
> >>picture of the face of a old Supra amp. Also a picture of a bullet type
> >>microphone. Does anyone know this type microphone? Thanks..
> >>
> >>
>
>I have made a couple of excellent bullet mics from 200 Astatics (they can
>go by other names too, but are all made by Astatic). These are the
>(usually) gold/bronze colored hammer tone ones with the handle and shell as
>one piece, with or without a switch and a detachable round base at the
>bottom. Some have chrome faces, others do not. A lot have no brand name
>markings at all.
>
>They are real cheap on ebay, $20 or so. Don't expect the element to work
>necessarily, but if the seller says it doesnt rattle when shaken gently,
>there is a better chance it will work.
>
>One of my elements was stamped JT-30 on the back, the other wasn't. But
>both where the same in sound and appearance.
>
>Carefully remove the element and wiring. Take a hack saw or metal mitre saw
>and cut the handle off near the shell, about 1/4" or so of handle still
>remaining. Be sure to cut the handle perpendicular to its length for
>better appearance and cord direction straight down. The metal is a soft pot
>metal of some kind and saws cleanly and easily. Sand the cut part nice and
>flat and smooth with sandpaper glued to a ceramic tile or flat board or a
>metal file. Dont throw away the handle yet.
>
>There is a small cyclinder that attaches the handle to the base, this can
>be removed from the handle by tapping out the pin (s?) with a punch. Take
>the small cylinder and push it into the hole that remains in the shell
>where the handle was cut off. It is a perfect fit (The hole is round, even
>though the handle isn't). I epoxied mine in, but if you like tap & dies &
>set screws this would work well too.
>
>I also made an XLR plug version of this mic, and wouldn't you know it, the
>female XLR plug diameter was an exact fit to the hole inside the handle and
>I could attach the nut inside the shell (dont know the brand name of XLR
>but I can find out if you need to know).
>
>The element can be put back in and the cord ran out of the hole, which
>originally had a cord running out of it before this mod, so its already the
>right size . A short wire and a female plug to go into a guitar cable is
>the most idiot proof (er.. that's idiot resistant) way to go. A pot can be
>added anywhere on the shell. I put a mini pot at the pointy end of the
>bullets.
>
>These are great bullet mics on a budget, and if you are lucky enough to get
>a working JT-30 element inside, you have all the balls of a JT-30 at a
>fraction of the cost (check archives for replacement elements). I just
>havent figured out what to do with the bases, they look so useful, but I
>don't smoke anymore.
>
> >From the "Well, it worked for me department" ...
>
>Gee